Why Onerous Food Labels Won’t Make A Dent On Obesity

They ‘preach to the choir’ and reassure the health-conscious — but don’t get through to those who need it the most

As the obesity crisis continues to worsen, the White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition & Health, which convened in September, is proposing a series of remedies. One of them is a front-of-package (FOP) labeling system to quickly and easily communicate nutrition information to shoppers. Over the next few years grocery shelves could be lined with black stop signs, star ratings, traffic lights or other scoring systems on food products as you navigate around the supermarket.

The Conference is well-intentioned. But will labeling work? The facts tell me it won’t. An industrywide overhaul of food packaging is unlikely to make a dent in the ever-growing obesity rates worldwide.

Despite this uncertainty, some well-intentioned companies and policy makers are betting that label rating systems will at least be part of the solution. Ahold-Delhaize’s supermarket chains such as Hannaford Brothers and Stop & Shop have been designating one to three stars to its food items as part of its Guiding Stars system, which is also accessible to consumers who do their shopping online. Several countries in Western Europe have instituted some version of the Nutri-Score packaging imprint, which involves color codes and letters from A to E to signal the overall nutritional quality of the food. And recently Nestle announced that its annual report will benchmark its food and beverage brands according to the Health Star Rating (HSR) system, which assigns a nutrition profile score of ½ to 5 stars.

Other countries, however, have launched more onerous “interpretive” front-of-pack labels which highlight “unhealthy” ingredients such as sugar, sodium, saturated fats and/or calories.

For example, in 2014, Ecuador adopted a traffic-light, color-coded front-of-pack labeling system. A study by Universidad San Francisco de Quito suggested that the labeling had increased awareness of the sugar, salt and fat content in foods. While encouraging, a 2022 Global Nutrition Report illustrated that adult overweight/obesity rates nevertheless went up in Ecuador from 54.8% pre-labeling in 2014 to 57.7% in 2019. Chile went a step further. In 2016 the country imposed black stop signs on “junk food” packaging to point out higher amounts of unhealthy ingredients. While sales of sugar-sweetened drinks have decreased by a respectable 24%, childhood obesity rates in Chile have continued to rise, from 51.2% in 2016 when the labeling began to 54% in 2020.

So why might such labeling be ineffective? A McKinsey Global Institute study provides some clues. Their assessment concluded that among the sixteen interventions analyzed, food labeling was not powerful enough to make a meaningful impact on reducing obesity. The report singled out portion control and product reformulation as the top way food companies can help address rising obesity rates.

A 2020 consumer segmentation study from Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) offers deeper insights. NMI found that those with the highest rates of overweight and obesity did not read nutrition information on packages nearly as much as those at a healthy weight. Eighty-four percent of Well Beings (the most health-conscious consumer segment) indicated that they read nutritional information while only 24% of Eat, Drink & Be Merry’s (the least health engaged) select foods based on nutrition information. in other words, nutritional labeling merely preaches to the choir: reassuring health-conscious consumers they are making good choices but not getting through to the people who need it the most.

The bottom line: while some kind of food labeling can be found on nearly every continent (along with taxes on soft drinks and bans on “junk foods’ at checkout counters), obesity is still rampant and rising in most parts of the world.

I applaud the White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition & Health for taking on this grave health problem. My advice: give labeling your best shot, but don’t expect it to do too much to alleviate the complex problem of obesity. As the US rolls out its own labeling scheme, here is what we can learn from these studies and other countries’ experiences about what works:

  • Test label systems to see if they change buying decisions among consumers who are most overweight and with obesity before settling on a widespread rollout.
  • Expand the labeling to the restaurant industry. People over-indulge the most when they are eating out, and restaurants have lagged the packaged goods and beverage industries in making real commitments to offer healthier options and smaller portions.
  • Keep the labels as simple as possible, so that people of all levels of nutritional sophistication can easily understand them.
  • To encourage real change and buy-in from the food industry, make the labels informative rather than interpretive (as in symbols that brand food products as “bad”).

It’s clear

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Nick Fuentes gets into a food fight at LA In-N-Out Burger

Customers at a Los Angeles In-N-Out Burger had a major beef with white supremacist Nick Fuentes.

Fuentes, the far-right agitator whose recent dinner with former President Donald Trump and rapper Kanye West stirred up controversy, got into a food fight early Saturday morning with patrons at the popular burger chain.

Nick Fuentes, far-right activist, holds a rally at the Lansing Capitol, in Lansing, Mich., Nov.  11, 2020.

The video of the incident obtained by TMZ shows the 24-year-old Holocaust denier flinging a massive cup of soda toward the restaurant counter, dousing fellow diners waiting on line to place their orders. Most of them turn and stare in shock while at least one person shouts profanities and mocks Fuentes.

“F–k Nick Fuentes,” he says. “You racists!”

Nick Fuentes right-wing podcaster, center right in sunglasses, greets supporters before speaking at a pro-Trump march, Nov.  14, 2020, in Washington.

According to an unidentified witness, Fuentes and a friend had just sat down for a meal when they were approached by a couple already in the restaurant. They appeared to argue, but it’s not clear what sparked the squabble. At one point, the pair started to fling paper cups filled with ketchup at Fuentes, who in turn launched his drink in their direction.

The witness told TMZ Fuentes missed his targets and instead sprayed other customers.

FILE - People walk below an In-N-Out Burger restaurant sign in San Francisco.

Fuentes, who was banned from YouTube for his views, raised eyebrows last month after he met with Trump and West at Trump’s Mar-a-Lago resort.

The Grammy-winning rapper, who goes by Ye, has also faced backlash in recent months for antisemitic rhetoric spouting. Most recently, West professed his admiration for Hitler on Alex Jones’ “Infowars” show.

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Rubato takes a contemporary spin on Hong Kong and Cantonese comfort food

Rubato takes a contemporary spin on Hong Kong and Cantonese comfort food

Quincy, Mass., cafe offers traditional food including bao and congee, and a unique take on French toast



BIT OF ROCK IN ITS ROOTS. A RETIRED ROCK STAR CALLS HER CHEF SON BACK FROM LONDON TO TAKE OVER THE TRADITIONAL CHINESE BAKERY. THAT’S BEEN IN THE FAMILY FOR 22 YEARS. THE PULLED THE TRIGGER. OH, NO. THIS ISN’T THE PLOT OF A NEW FAMILY DRAMEDY. TEMPO WAS THE NAME OF MY MOM’S ROCK BAND. THEY DID LIKE ROCK COVERS. IT’S THE TRUE STORY BEHIND RUBATO, THE HONG KONG STYLE CAFE RECENTLY OPENED IN QUINCY BY CHEF LAWRENCE LUI AND HIS WIFE VERY RITZY FOR, I WOULD SAY, NUMBER ONE, BY FAR THE MOST POPULAR DISH IS THE FRIED CHICKEN BALL BARREL IS ESSENTIALLY LIKE A BUTTERY BRIOCHE BUN WITH A LITTLE CRISPY COOKIE TOP. ANY CHINESE BAKERY WILL HAVE IT. WE DECIDED TO KIND OF PUT A LITTLE MODERN TWIST TO IT. SO WE’RE WE’RE STICKING SOME FRIED CHICKEN IN THERE. WE HAVE SOME SLAW AND A HOUSEMADE SAUCE THAT WE HAVE TAKEN OVER A BAKERY THAT’S THRIVED FOR TWO DECADES AND CHANGING THE MENU WAS A RISK. THE FIRST DAY WE’RE LIKE, OKAY, WELL, LET’S HOPE THAT WE CAN SELL A COUPLE OF THINGS AND THEN LET’S REALLY HOPE THAT PEOPLE ARE GOING TO LIKE IT. AND WE ENDED UP HAVING A LINE OF PEOPLE WAITING FOR US TO OPEN UP AND WAITING TO TRY OUR FOOD. AND THE LINES HAVEN’T STOPPED FROM THE MOMENT WE OPEN UNTIL LIKE 2:03 PM, WE FELL OUT OF FOOD COMPLETELY. WE HAD PEOPLE AT 730 JUST TO GET THE FRIED CHICKEN JUST SO THEY’RE SURE THAT THEY CAN GET IT FOR LUNCHTIME. JOE IF YOU WANT LUNCH, COME EARLY. BUT DON’T OVERLOOK THE DELICIOUS BREAKFAST OPTIONS, INCLUDING THE HONG KONG STYLE LARVAE, EGG YOLK, FRENCH TOAST. SO INSIDE IS THIS SALTED EGG YOLK CUSTARD THAT’S VERY RUNNY. SO IF YOU WILL CUT INTO IT, IT’S GOING TO BE SPEWING OUT. AND IT’S KIND OF A SIGNATURE FLAVOR PROFILE FOR HONG KONG FOOD. THERE’S PLENTY OF INNOVATION ON THE MENU, BUT FOR THOSE STILL CRAVING THE CLASSIC EGGS FROM CONTEMPO BAKERY, HIS MUSICAL MOTHER RAN FOR DECADES. CHEF LOUIS IS HAPPY TO OBLIGE THIS FOOD IS WHAT I GREW UP ON AS WELL. WE WANTED TO, YOU KNOW, RESPECT THAT AND BE PART OF THAT COMMUNITY. AND SO IT’S THESE KIND OF FRIED DOUGH STICKS THAT PAIR REALLY WELL WITH CANDY AND HOT SOY LOOK THAT’S LIKE COULDN’T QUINTESSENTIAL KIND OF CHINESE BREAKFAST FOOD. SO WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE HAVE THAT AVAILABLE FOR FOLKS THAT RESPECT FOR THE PAST EXTEND INTO THE WALL ART AS WHERE CONTEMPO THE NAME OF THE ORIGINAL CHINESE BAKERY STILL SHINES. SO SHE NAMED THE BAKERY AFTER HER MAN. WHEN MY WIFE AND I DECIDED TO TAKE OVER, REALLY THINKING LIKE, HOW DO WE PAY HOMAGE TO THE OLD FACE? AND KIND OF MY MOM’S LEGACY, BUT ALSO, YOU KNOW, SOMETHING NEW. SO ROBOTO IS A MUSICAL TERM FOR CHANGE OF TEMPO, WHICH IS WHAT WE WANTED. WHILE CHEF LOUIS MAY HAVE GROWN UP EATING HOMEMADE ASIAN CUISINE, BUT PROFESSIONALLY, HIS SWEET SPOT WAS REALLY MEDITERRANEAN. YEAH, HE WORKED AND DEVELOPED HIS CRAFT AT OLEANNA IN CAMBRIDGE BEFORE BECOMING HEAD CHEF AT OLIVER AND EAST LONDON. AND BOTH OF THOSE RESTAURANTS ACTUALLY FEATURE CUISINE FROM TURKEY. BOY, AM I HUNGRY. NOW THAT IS CHRONICLE FOR TONIGHT. THANKS SO MUCH FOR JOINING US. I’M SHAYNA SEYMOUR. I’M ANTHONY EVERETT. HAVE A GREAT EVENING. HOPE TO SEE YOU BACK HERE AGAIN TOMORROW NIGHT FOR ANOTHER EDITION OF CHRONICLE. CAN I HAVE EVERY BODY.

Rubato takes a contemporary spin on Hong Kong and Cantonese comfort food

Quincy, Mass., cafe offers traditional food including bao and congee, and a unique take on French toast

Rubato is a modern Hong Kong cafe in Quincy, Massachusetts. While modern offerings like the Fried Chicken Bolo Bao may take center stage, you can still find Chinese classics, including a Chinese donut and congee.

Rubato is a modern Hong Kong cafe in Quincy, Massachusetts. While modern offerings like the Fried Chicken Bolo Bao may take center stage, you can still find Chinese classics, including a Chinese donut and congee.

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