Four San Francisco restaurants receive new Michelin Star honors

Four of San Francisco’s top dining destinations achieved new Michelin star honors on Monday, Dec. 5, during the 2022 edition of the Michelin Guide California ceremony held in Los Angeles. Eighteen California restaurants were recognized in all.

San Francisco-based restaurants receiving their first coveted Michelin star include Nisei, Osito, San Ho Won and Ssal. Press in St. Helena and Localis in Sacramento also received the prestigious recognition, where restaurants are judged by anonymous dining inspectors who visit establishments during lunch and dinner service at various times throughout the year.

Chef David Yoshimura of Nisei was also honored with the Michelin Young Chef Award. According to Michelin’s anonymous chief inspector, Yoshimura is a chef who is “full of personality” with dishes elevated by his personal culinary journey.

“Chef Yoshimura is just under 35, and I say, he embodies exactly what we’re looking for in a young talent,” the inspector told SFGATE. “His cuisine represents a unique perspective and background and is captured in his cooking that’s both ambitious and highly personal.”

Nisei's tasting menu is "equal parts tradition and invention, where a classic matsutake broth sits in harmony with a wholly original dessert of Okinawan purple sweet potato."

Nisei’s tasting menu is “equal parts tradition and invention, where a classic matsutake broth sits in harmony with a wholly original dessert of Okinawan purple sweet potato.”

Brianna Danner

In total, there are 89 restaurants with Michelin-star status in California and seven of those establishments garnered the three-star ranking. Michelin’s secret restaurant inspectors also awarded two new Green Stars, bringing the state tally of restaurants leading in sustainable practices to 11. There are only two Green-Starred restaurants in any other US states.

Green Stars are awarded to restaurants that are true front-runners in gastronomy and are role models for their guests and peers.

“That also shows that chefs here are real trendsetters, influencers and California as a whole is definitely a culinary powerhouse,” said international director of the Michelin Guides, Gwendal Poullennec. “California really has something to say and has a strong voice now in the world of culinary conversation. It has a strong identity when it comes to the quality of the produce. It’s really a part of the California culinary identity.”



Poullennec added that the three-star Michelin level is the “crème de la crème” in terms of gastronomy restaurants in the US and beyond. There are 142 restaurants at the three-star level worldwide, with 40 three-star restaurants in the US

“When we looked at the number of three-stars in the US, now we have seven in California, and that’s a lot,” he said. “If we look at the US as a whole, it’s the No. 3 destinations in the world in terms of the number of restaurants with the three-star label.”

Chef Seth Stowaway puts his "heart, soul and even his nickname (osito means 'little bear') into this rustic, lodge-like spot."

Chef Seth Stowaway puts his “heart, soul and even his nickname (osito means ‘little bear’) into this rustic, lodge-like spot.”

Molly DeCoudreaux

Out of the 18 California restaurants recognized this year for new stars, eight of them are promotions. These were restaurants that were already a part of Michelin’s highly ranked selections and inspectors kept close watch over them throughout the year. The anonymous chief inspector listed Ssal in San Francisco and Localis in Sacramento listed as examples of restaurants getting promoted.

The Michelin Guide is all about consistency, according to Poullennec, who noted that the guide was started in 1900 and hasn’t changed its approach and criteria since then. For more than one century Michelin’s inspectors have followed the same methodology based on five universal criteria: “the quality of the food is based on the quality of the product, the master of cooking techniques, the balance of flavors, the personality expressed on the plate, and lastly the consistency.”

Local chef-owner Christopher Barnum-Dann "brings unusual warmth to this intimate setting" in Sacramento.  This is Localis first Michelin star recognition.

Local chef-owner Christopher Barnum-Dann “brings unusual warmth to this intimate setting” in Sacramento. This is Localis first Michelin star recognition.

Localist

Below is the list of San Francisco restaurants that took home the esteemed Michelin recognition with comments from the secret inspectors. For a full list of all 89 Michelin-starred establishments in California visit here.

Nisei
San Francisco, Japanese/Contemporary cuisine

“’Nisei’ refers to the American-born children of Japanese immigrants, which Chef David Yoshimura is; and the synthesis of that heritage forms the basis of this cuisine. The kitchen employs both boldness and subtlety in their cooking, which abounds with personality and technical finesse. The tasting menu is equal parts tradition and invention, where a classic matsutake broth sits in harmony with a wholly original dessert of Okinawan purple sweet potato.”

Osito
San Francisco, Contemporary cuisine

“Chef Seth Stowaway puts his heart, soul and even his nickname (osito means ‘little bear’) into this rustic, lodge-like spot where live-fire cooking takes center stage. The multicourse tasting menu is served at an expansive communal table and changes with the seasons. The food is both elemental and elevated, with a subtle perfume of smoke wending through the various courses, seen in dishes like a lightly cooked king salmon with fennel and porcini,

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Why Onerous Food Labels Won’t Make A Dent On Obesity

They ‘preach to the choir’ and reassure the health-conscious — but don’t get through to those who need it the most

As the obesity crisis continues to worsen, the White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition & Health, which convened in September, is proposing a series of remedies. One of them is a front-of-package (FOP) labeling system to quickly and easily communicate nutrition information to shoppers. Over the next few years grocery shelves could be lined with black stop signs, star ratings, traffic lights or other scoring systems on food products as you navigate around the supermarket.

The Conference is well-intentioned. But will labeling work? The facts tell me it won’t. An industrywide overhaul of food packaging is unlikely to make a dent in the ever-growing obesity rates worldwide.

Despite this uncertainty, some well-intentioned companies and policy makers are betting that label rating systems will at least be part of the solution. Ahold-Delhaize’s supermarket chains such as Hannaford Brothers and Stop & Shop have been designating one to three stars to its food items as part of its Guiding Stars system, which is also accessible to consumers who do their shopping online. Several countries in Western Europe have instituted some version of the Nutri-Score packaging imprint, which involves color codes and letters from A to E to signal the overall nutritional quality of the food. And recently Nestle announced that its annual report will benchmark its food and beverage brands according to the Health Star Rating (HSR) system, which assigns a nutrition profile score of ½ to 5 stars.

Other countries, however, have launched more onerous “interpretive” front-of-pack labels which highlight “unhealthy” ingredients such as sugar, sodium, saturated fats and/or calories.

For example, in 2014, Ecuador adopted a traffic-light, color-coded front-of-pack labeling system. A study by Universidad San Francisco de Quito suggested that the labeling had increased awareness of the sugar, salt and fat content in foods. While encouraging, a 2022 Global Nutrition Report illustrated that adult overweight/obesity rates nevertheless went up in Ecuador from 54.8% pre-labeling in 2014 to 57.7% in 2019. Chile went a step further. In 2016 the country imposed black stop signs on “junk food” packaging to point out higher amounts of unhealthy ingredients. While sales of sugar-sweetened drinks have decreased by a respectable 24%, childhood obesity rates in Chile have continued to rise, from 51.2% in 2016 when the labeling began to 54% in 2020.

So why might such labeling be ineffective? A McKinsey Global Institute study provides some clues. Their assessment concluded that among the sixteen interventions analyzed, food labeling was not powerful enough to make a meaningful impact on reducing obesity. The report singled out portion control and product reformulation as the top way food companies can help address rising obesity rates.

A 2020 consumer segmentation study from Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) offers deeper insights. NMI found that those with the highest rates of overweight and obesity did not read nutrition information on packages nearly as much as those at a healthy weight. Eighty-four percent of Well Beings (the most health-conscious consumer segment) indicated that they read nutritional information while only 24% of Eat, Drink & Be Merry’s (the least health engaged) select foods based on nutrition information. in other words, nutritional labeling merely preaches to the choir: reassuring health-conscious consumers they are making good choices but not getting through to the people who need it the most.

The bottom line: while some kind of food labeling can be found on nearly every continent (along with taxes on soft drinks and bans on “junk foods’ at checkout counters), obesity is still rampant and rising in most parts of the world.

I applaud the White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition & Health for taking on this grave health problem. My advice: give labeling your best shot, but don’t expect it to do too much to alleviate the complex problem of obesity. As the US rolls out its own labeling scheme, here is what we can learn from these studies and other countries’ experiences about what works:

  • Test label systems to see if they change buying decisions among consumers who are most overweight and with obesity before settling on a widespread rollout.
  • Expand the labeling to the restaurant industry. People over-indulge the most when they are eating out, and restaurants have lagged the packaged goods and beverage industries in making real commitments to offer healthier options and smaller portions.
  • Keep the labels as simple as possible, so that people of all levels of nutritional sophistication can easily understand them.
  • To encourage real change and buy-in from the food industry, make the labels informative rather than interpretive (as in symbols that brand food products as “bad”).

It’s clear

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Nick Fuentes gets into a food fight at LA In-N-Out Burger

Customers at a Los Angeles In-N-Out Burger had a major beef with white supremacist Nick Fuentes.

Fuentes, the far-right agitator whose recent dinner with former President Donald Trump and rapper Kanye West stirred up controversy, got into a food fight early Saturday morning with patrons at the popular burger chain.

Nick Fuentes, far-right activist, holds a rally at the Lansing Capitol, in Lansing, Mich., Nov.  11, 2020.

The video of the incident obtained by TMZ shows the 24-year-old Holocaust denier flinging a massive cup of soda toward the restaurant counter, dousing fellow diners waiting on line to place their orders. Most of them turn and stare in shock while at least one person shouts profanities and mocks Fuentes.

“F–k Nick Fuentes,” he says. “You racists!”

Nick Fuentes right-wing podcaster, center right in sunglasses, greets supporters before speaking at a pro-Trump march, Nov.  14, 2020, in Washington.

According to an unidentified witness, Fuentes and a friend had just sat down for a meal when they were approached by a couple already in the restaurant. They appeared to argue, but it’s not clear what sparked the squabble. At one point, the pair started to fling paper cups filled with ketchup at Fuentes, who in turn launched his drink in their direction.

The witness told TMZ Fuentes missed his targets and instead sprayed other customers.

FILE - People walk below an In-N-Out Burger restaurant sign in San Francisco.

Fuentes, who was banned from YouTube for his views, raised eyebrows last month after he met with Trump and West at Trump’s Mar-a-Lago resort.

The Grammy-winning rapper, who goes by Ye, has also faced backlash in recent months for antisemitic rhetoric spouting. Most recently, West professed his admiration for Hitler on Alex Jones’ “Infowars” show.

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