Why Onerous Food Labels Won’t Make A Dent On Obesity

They ‘preach to the choir’ and reassure the health-conscious — but don’t get through to those who need it the most

As the obesity crisis continues to worsen, the White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition & Health, which convened in September, is proposing a series of remedies. One of them is a front-of-package (FOP) labeling system to quickly and easily communicate nutrition information to shoppers. Over the next few years grocery shelves could be lined with black stop signs, star ratings, traffic lights or other scoring systems on food products as you navigate around the supermarket.

The Conference is well-intentioned. But will labeling work? The facts tell me it won’t. An industrywide overhaul of food packaging is unlikely to make a dent in the ever-growing obesity rates worldwide.

Despite this uncertainty, some well-intentioned companies and policy makers are betting that label rating systems will at least be part of the solution. Ahold-Delhaize’s supermarket chains such as Hannaford Brothers and Stop & Shop have been designating one to three stars to its food items as part of its Guiding Stars system, which is also accessible to consumers who do their shopping online. Several countries in Western Europe have instituted some version of the Nutri-Score packaging imprint, which involves color codes and letters from A to E to signal the overall nutritional quality of the food. And recently Nestle announced that its annual report will benchmark its food and beverage brands according to the Health Star Rating (HSR) system, which assigns a nutrition profile score of ½ to 5 stars.

Other countries, however, have launched more onerous “interpretive” front-of-pack labels which highlight “unhealthy” ingredients such as sugar, sodium, saturated fats and/or calories.

For example, in 2014, Ecuador adopted a traffic-light, color-coded front-of-pack labeling system. A study by Universidad San Francisco de Quito suggested that the labeling had increased awareness of the sugar, salt and fat content in foods. While encouraging, a 2022 Global Nutrition Report illustrated that adult overweight/obesity rates nevertheless went up in Ecuador from 54.8% pre-labeling in 2014 to 57.7% in 2019. Chile went a step further. In 2016 the country imposed black stop signs on “junk food” packaging to point out higher amounts of unhealthy ingredients. While sales of sugar-sweetened drinks have decreased by a respectable 24%, childhood obesity rates in Chile have continued to rise, from 51.2% in 2016 when the labeling began to 54% in 2020.

So why might such labeling be ineffective? A McKinsey Global Institute study provides some clues. Their assessment concluded that among the sixteen interventions analyzed, food labeling was not powerful enough to make a meaningful impact on reducing obesity. The report singled out portion control and product reformulation as the top way food companies can help address rising obesity rates.

A 2020 consumer segmentation study from Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) offers deeper insights. NMI found that those with the highest rates of overweight and obesity did not read nutrition information on packages nearly as much as those at a healthy weight. Eighty-four percent of Well Beings (the most health-conscious consumer segment) indicated that they read nutritional information while only 24% of Eat, Drink & Be Merry’s (the least health engaged) select foods based on nutrition information. in other words, nutritional labeling merely preaches to the choir: reassuring health-conscious consumers they are making good choices but not getting through to the people who need it the most.

The bottom line: while some kind of food labeling can be found on nearly every continent (along with taxes on soft drinks and bans on “junk foods’ at checkout counters), obesity is still rampant and rising in most parts of the world.

I applaud the White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition & Health for taking on this grave health problem. My advice: give labeling your best shot, but don’t expect it to do too much to alleviate the complex problem of obesity. As the US rolls out its own labeling scheme, here is what we can learn from these studies and other countries’ experiences about what works:

  • Test label systems to see if they change buying decisions among consumers who are most overweight and with obesity before settling on a widespread rollout.
  • Expand the labeling to the restaurant industry. People over-indulge the most when they are eating out, and restaurants have lagged the packaged goods and beverage industries in making real commitments to offer healthier options and smaller portions.
  • Keep the labels as simple as possible, so that people of all levels of nutritional sophistication can easily understand them.
  • To encourage real change and buy-in from the food industry, make the labels informative rather than interpretive (as in symbols that brand food products as “bad”).

It’s clear

Read More

10 Colorado Christmas beers to drink this season, from stouts to IPAs

For Colorado beer drinkers, there’s no better time of year than the weeks between Halloween and Christmas, because that’s when local breweries load up their sleighs full of big, rich beers and gift them to all of us, regardless of whether we’ve been naughty or nice.

While 2022 has seen fewer big (and expensive) releases thanks to belt tightening after a brutal two years of pandemic and inflation-related woes, there are still plenty of delicious offerings to unwrap, including new ones from the likes of Ska, New Belgium and Great Divide.

Here are 10 that should put you in the mood for some fa-la-la.

Great Divide Brewing Gingerbread Yeti Imperial Stout

Great Divide has added to its already extensive lineup of seasonally flavored Yetis by canning Gingerbread Yeti for the first time. Made with a blend of holiday spices, honey and vanilla, the 9.5% ABV beer is backed by the brewery’s classic roast imperial stout flavors of chocolate malt and coffee. It is on draft and available in 19.2oz cans.

2201 Arapahoe St. and 1812 35th St., Denver; greatdivide.com

Woods Boss Brewing Magical Narwhal Unicorn Candy Cane Stout

Made with nearly 15 pounds of candy canes, this amazingly named beer carries all the chocolate peppermint flavors of the season. Put together as “cheers to our friends, family and beer lovers everywhere,” it “feels like a big, warm hug piled with heaps of candy canes straight from the North Pole,” the brewery said. It’s available on draft and in canned four-packs at the taproom.

2210 California St., Denver; woodsbossbrewing.com

Codename: Holidayfan is a 10% ABV triple IPA from Odd13 Brewing in Lafayette.  (Provided by Odd13 Brewing)
Codename: Holidayfan is a 10% ABV triple IPA from Odd13 Brewing in Lafayette. (Provided by Odd13 Brewing)

Odd13 Brewing Codename Holidayfan

Brewed with powerfully flavored Citra, Simcoe and Eukuanot hops, Holidayfan is an absolute whopper of a triple IPA, coming in at 10% ABV. It began as a version of the brewery’s flagship Codename: Superfan, but has since taken on a life of its own. The label is one of the few to feature not just Christmas cheer but also Hanukkah happiness and a nod to Festivus.

301 E. Simpson St., Lafayette; odd13brewing.com

Diebolt Brewing Joyeux Noël Spiced Winter Lager

Diebolt Brewing has taken a slightly different approach to this winter warmer. Although it is spiced with sweet orange peel and Ceylon cinnamon sticks, Joyeux Noël was brewed as a lager, which means it has a lighter feel on the palate. The addition of Belgian candi syrup gives it a sweet finish that complements its rich malt bill. It is on draft and available in cans to go. (Oh, and Diebolt also releases Jingle Juice, brewed with three kinds of hops, on Dec. 3.)

3855 Mariposa St., Denver; dieboltbrewing.com

River North Brewery releases its candy cane porter on Saturday, Dec.  3. (Provided by River North Brewery)
River North Brewery releases its candy cane porter on Dec. 3. (Provided by River North Brewery)

River North Brewery Chocolate Peppermint Candy Cane Imperial Porter

This fun collaboration is between a century-old Denver stalwart, Hammond’s Candies, and a newer one, River North Brewery, both of which have operations along North Washington Street. Inspired by Hammond’s chocolate cream-filled candy canes, this 12.5% ​​ABV porter will be on tap and in bottles at both River North taprooms starting on Saturday, Dec. 3.

3400 Blake St. and 6021 Washington St., Denver; rivernorthbrewery.com

Sanitas Brewing Nutcracker IPA

Here’s the backstory behind this citrusy, piney IPA, brewed with Talus and Centennial hops: When brewery co-founder Michael Memsic and his wife, Arlynn, found out they were having a second child, their firstborn daughter, Ayla, “was equally excited, Sanitas said. Since it was around the holidays, Ayla decided to call the child Baby Nutcracker. “A two-year-old running around telling everyone that mom and dad are having a ‘Baby Nutcracker’ became an unforgettable family story, and the family nickname stuck.” Get the beer on draft or in cans to go.

3550 Frontier Ave., Boulder; sanitasbrewing.com

Ring in the holidays with New Belgium's new Holiday Ale.  (Provided by New Belgium Brewing)
Ring in the holidays with New Belgium’s new Holiday Ale. (Provided by New Belgium Brewing)

New Belgium Brewing Holiday Ale

New Belgium has delivered a new winter seasonal for 2022 called Holiday Ale. It offers “festive aromas of cinnamon and nutmeg followed by flavors of cranberry, orange and a pinch of brown sugar,” according to the Fort Collins brewery. Coming in at 7.5% ABV, it’s available in six packs.

500 Linden St., Fort Collins; newbelgium.com

Burns Family Artisan Ales Buche de Noel

Burns specializes in brewing high-octane beers, and Buche de Noel, which will be released on Saturday, Dec. 3, there are no exceptions. The 15.6% ABV bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout was designed to taste like the traditional Christmastime chocolate log cakes served in France, Belgium and other countries. Although no flavorings were added to the beer, it carries notes of milky cocoa, dark fruit and vanilla. Buche is an annual tradition for Burns.

2505 W. Second Ave., #Unit 13, Denver; burnsalesdenver.com

Ska Brewing's new holiday beer uses artisan peppermint bark.  (Provided by Ska Brewing)
Ska Brewing’s new holiday
Read More

Why getting a table at Dallas restaurants is harder than it used to be

The restaurant industry has changed in innumerable ways in recent years, but one shift Dallas diners are coming to terms with is the growing demand for restaurant reservations and the dwindling ability to get a table without one.

The surge in demand for table bookings picked up speed in 2021 as people eagerly returned to in-person dining once COVID-19 cases dropped, but the shift seems here to stay. Walk-in seat availability is harder to come by, and making reservations only a day or two out at popular restaurants often means taking early or late-night seating — or striking out altogether.

The uptick in demand for restaurant reservations is happening nationally. Online searches for reservations in the first quarter of 2022 were up 107% from the same time frame in 2021, according to national data from Yelp. We talked with several local restaurants who said they’ve seen a noticeable owner rise in demand for reservations at Dallas restaurants in the past year.

There are several reasons for the shift. First, there’s the matter of planning and convenience, which is no different now than it’s always been. Diners have schedules to juggle, babysitters to hire, and celebrations to plan around, all of which factor into the demand for reservations.

Then there’s the matter of social currency. Hard-to-get reservations have become a signal of social status. The country’s most coveted restaurant bookings are now being sold to people willing to pay anonymous sellers thousands of dollars on black market sites, like one run by a 34-year-old in Miami, according to a new report from the San Francisco Chronicles.

But restaurants are really driving this change in reservation culture. Still facing workforce shortages and rising operating costs, some restaurants have reduced their hours or scaled down their footprints. This has led restaurants to rely more heavily on reservations to run their businesses, and they’re encouraging them more than ever in a climate of economic uncertainty, says Emily Knight, president of the Texas Restaurant Association.

“In Dallas, we’re running at about a 20% [restaurant] staffing shortage, and with that you’re going to have fewer tables and slimmer menus,” Knight says. “So now what you have is a restaurant that needs much more thoughtful staffing and to know who is coming in and when to dine. And they need to ensure that if that person makes a reservation, that they’re going to really come in.”

TakeTatsu, for example. The omakase restaurant opened in Dallas’ Deep Ellum neighborhood in May 2022 and has already become “the city’s hardest reservation,” according to D Magazine dining critic Brian Reinhart. To get a seat at Tatsu, hopeful diners set alarms for 8 am on the first and the 15th of the month when reservations for the tasting menu, which must be paid in full at $170 per person, are released in two-week batches. The seats go quickly. After all, there are only 10 seats and two seats a night.

Matthew Ciccone, owner of Tatsu, says offering a limited number of prepaid reservations is pivotal to their business model and to ensure the level of hospitality and food they strive to execute. He found that releasing any more than 10 days of reservations at a time increases the likelihood of cancellations, even with a policy in place that asks for cancellations to be made five days in advance.

Master sushi chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi prepares sushi at Tatsu in Deep Ellum, Thursday, May 19,...
Master sushi chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi prepares sushi at Tatsu in Deep Ellum, Thursday, May 19, 2022.(Elias Valverde II / Staff Photographer)

“By doing it this way, we are controlling our food waste and ordering exactly what we need. The other side of that coin is why we ask for full payment up front. We pay our staff what they should be doing by doing this,” he says. “We can also really tailor the menu to the guests that book, and the only way to do that is to have that money up front.”

Ciccone says there has been a noticeable change in restaurant reservation demands in the Dallas dining scene in the past few years, and he sees it as Dallas catching up to other major cities like New York, where he lived for a decade.

“There’s no such thing as dining out without a reservation there,” he says. “I think this is going to be a new thing here [in Dallas] and part of the trade-off that we’re making with having more good restaurants.”

With that change, though, comes the possibility of people taking advantage of the demand and reselling restaurant reservations for a profit, and it’s something Ciccone is trying to hold off.

“We did an analysis with Tock [a booking site] to make sure people were not using computer programs to book reservations. Tock doesn’t allow people to use a script to book reservations, so we feel comfortable

Read More