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In a London restaurant, Senegalese hold heads high despite England disappointment | WorldCup

Posted on05/01/202307/12/2022Author

It was a freezing night in east London, but inside Little Baobab, an inconspicuous Senegalese restaurant hidden away in a building in Clapton, there was a cautious buzz of optimism. Usually the venue hosts Senegalese musicians, often playing mbalax, a type of Senegalese and Gambian dance music. But tonight, it was all about the football, with the crowd of 40 or so hopefully their team could reach the quarter-finals of the World Cup in just the second time.

Khadim Mbamba, the restaurant’s chef, refused to sit, but chose instead to lean nervously against a chair at the very back of the room. “Some people have told me Senegal only has a 15% chance of winning,” he said. “I would say 35%. I don’t think there’s going to be many goals, though. 1-0 or 2-1, maybe.”

For Mbamba, it’s significant that the team is led by Aliou Cissé, a veteran of the famous 2002 campaign when Senegal beat then world champion France.

“We were coached by French managers so long. Now, most of the African teams are coached by Africans. Every country has its own mentality. A Senegalese manager knows how to handle the team and deal with the players.”

The Senegalese team are no strangers to grief. In the year of the 2002 World Cup campaign, the MV Le Joola, a ferry that connects Senegalese coastal cities, sank and 1,863 people lost their lives. Eleven of them were relatives of Cissé, and his sister was one of the dead. Two years ago, Papa Bouba Diop, the sole scorer in that famous victory against the French, died suddenly at the age of 42. The players led tributes to Diop ahead of their victory against Ecuador.

Although their talisman, Sadio Mané, was cruelly injured before the tournament, and former Paris Saint-Germain midfielder Idrissa Gueye was suspended, this is a Senegalese team with real quality – among them goalkeeper Édouard Mendy and defender Kalidou Koulibaly, both of whom play for Chelsea.

Ndene, a teacher and friend of Khadim, said that for some of the players who don’t play at that level, competing in the knockout rounds of this tournament is an opportunity to earn themselves a move to a bigger club.

“Every team wants to have Harry Kane. But the young Senegalese players really want to prove themselves,” Ndene said. “There are some young players, 23 or 24 years old. Iliman Ndiaye [of Sheffield United] for example, who plays in the Championship. Next year he wants to be in the Premier League.”

Ahead of the kick-off, the Senegalese anthem was hummed discreetly by only a few in the restaurant, but as it went on, more and more joined in, until by the time of the crescendo it was raucous, people standing and belting out the tune. Then, as the game got underway, the room rang with shouts of encouragement and appeals to the referee, peaking when the video assistant referee denied Senegal a penalty after the ball was cannoned off the hand of England defender John Stones.

But the positivity drained from the room when England went 2-0 up in added time in the first half. At the break, the mood was subdued, with the Lions of Teranga 2-0 behind.

Behind the projector screen showing the match, enticing smells emanated from stainless steel vats: small deep-fried pastries called fataya, mafe peanut butter and vegetable stew, chicken yassa with onions, caramelised with lime. Customers queued and the food restored some buoyancy.

Ashley grew up in Leyton, and had been to Little Baobab before. “Usually I’d watch an England match at the pub,” she said. “But to come here, to see the Senegalese culture, and eat the great food – it’s a different experience.”

And there was still hope. Reuben is from Derbyshire, but lives in east London. “I’m British through and through,” he said. “But I want to see an African country do well, just one time. I’m happy whoever wins, but now, with Ghana and Cameroon out, it’s all on Senegal.”

Michael, a French national of Senegalese descent, was upbeat. “Senegal has been the better team. I think we have a chance of getting back into it.”

But then it was on again, and just before the hour mark, England added to their lead through Bukayo Saka. Underneath the traditional Senegalese fabric bunting hung from the ceiling, the mood fell flat. Some got up and left. The final whistle blew, and the current

Detroit’s 2022 Eater Awards Winners: Best Restaurants, Chefs, and Bars

Posted on01/01/202307/12/2022Author

If there’s one characteristic that sums up Detroiters, it’s persistence. Working with grace under fire has always been a prerequisite for surviving and thriving in this city, whether it was during a pandemic, the struggles with gentrification, a historic bankruptcy, or decades of disinvestment. Somehow, we know how to overcome whatever challenges we’re faced. That’s no different for the restaurants and bars and in 2022, a number of establishments have found ways to innovate in the kitchen, build community one cocktail at a time, and design spaces in neighborhoods that feel welcome to all Detroiters.

This year, we saw an underutilized ground-level storefront near downtown transformed into an intimate neighborhood destination that’s perfected the art of Coney-style steak and frites, a long-vacant historic firehouse reimagined as a casual-yet-elegant wine bar, a trio of Black bartenders whose pop-up beverage program encapsulates Black excellence, and a pair of neighborhood restaurants that are redefining Detroiters’ notions of fine dining in their own communities.

And with that, Eater Detroit is proud to celebrate the winners of the 2022 Eater Awards.

The interior of Bar Pigalle in Detroit, Michigan with white top tables, dark colored chairs, green accents.

A dish of food on a plate from Bar Pigalle in Detroit, Michigan.

A cheeseburger in the foreground on a plate a bowl of fries to the left in the background and a brown bottle of beer to the right in the background from Bar Pigalle in Detroit, Michigan.

Best New Restaurant

Bar Pigalle

Years ago, sommelier Joseph Allerton and bartender Travis Fourmont got to know each other at the new-at-the-time Michael Symon’s Roast in the swanky Westin Book Cadillac. Allerton stayed at Roast, while Fourmont parted ways with the spot. The two crossed paths over the years after that and somehow always knew that they would get the chance to work again someday. That someday came this June when the pair opened Bar Pigalle on the ground level of the historic Carlton Lofts.

To be sure, the duo never abandoned their ties to the beverage world. Bar Pigalle’s cocktail, beer, and wine lists are impressive but now with their own space, they get to pair libations with a food menu. Chef Nyle Flynn plays with Detroit’s French history with dishes like bison tartare, guanciale-wrapped frog legs, and a Coney-style steak and frites. In keeping with its Parisian theme, the establishment is named after the Quartier Pigalle — home of the famous Moulin Rouge.

Best New Bar

Ladder 4 Wine Bar

Part of the charm of Detroit living is its abundance of historic architecture — including its old-school firehouses. Sadly, many of the city’s structures are in need of significant TLC, waiting for someone to recognize the beauty that lies within them. On an otherwise quiet corner at Vinewood and West Grand Boulevard one such firehouse, known as Ladder 4. Built in 1910 and designed by the same architects behind the Belle Isle Boat House, the hidden gem lay dormant since the station closed in 2000. Enter James Cadariu, who along with his brother, purchased the building in 2015 and got down to business restoring the space so that it could realize a new future. Earlier this year, Cadariu’s elbow grease finally paid off when he reintroduced Ladder Four as a bar and retail wine shop featuring more than 200 varieties of wines that span the globe.

On a balmy summer afternoon, guests can grab a seat at three patio spaces and sip on vino by the glass or bottle. The first floor boasts comfy U-shaped upholstered booths, several stone high tops, and a period-appropriate subway tiling. From the start, Cadariu insisted that Ladder 4 is a wine bar, not a restaurant, although more recently, that’s begun to change, thanks to the innovative menu designed by John Yelinek who also helms the popular Park Ranger pop-up. Sure, you could settle for a bowl of olives or a tin of mussels. But the move is certainly to go big with a 32-ounce dry-aged rib-eye for two. Suddenly, you’re transported from what was once an abandoned building into an elegant neighborhood destination.

Lisa Posey, one third of the Black on Both Sides bartending pop-up venture.

John Neely of Black on Both Sides in Detroit, Michigan.

Best New Collaborative Hospitality Experience

Black on Both Sides

In February 2022, a trio of Black bartenders decided to band together with the mission to enhance the hospitality experiences of people of color. Andre Sykes, who was just coming off the high of leading the Shelby speakeasy to the James Beard Awards’ long list for Best Bar in America, along with co-conspirators John Neely of Highlands and Lisa Posey who helped open an Evening Bar downtown in 2019 followed by a stint at The Spare Room in Los Angeles, launched Black on Both Sides. That investment in itself has been paid off so far. Among the trio’s highlights came mid-summer when they collaborated on an ambitious effort to invite Detroiters of all walks to immerse themselves in the city’s burgeoning, though sometimes a not-so-welcoming dining scene with the Hospitality Included Fest outside of the Chroma building in the Milwaukee Junction neighborhood. Among the dozens of food and beverage vendors in attendance — ranging from emerging

McDonald’s tests out a one-of-a-kind new restaurant model in Fort Worth

Posted on26/12/202207/12/2022Author

This roundup of Fort Worth restaurant news has quite a few openings and closures including a trendy new revolving sushi place, a longtime steakhouse dive in the Stockyards and a bistro that was serving tea. Other tidbits include winter menus and holiday fares.

Here’s what’s happening in Fort Worth restaurant news:

Revolving Sushi is the name of a new restaurant now open at 3088 Basswood Blvd. #250, in far north Fort Worth near I-35. They do the trendy revolving sushi concept, in which a conveyor belt circulates through the restaurant, allowing diners to snatch up the items of their choice as they trundle by. They’re coming on strong, serving revolving sushi all day, and will be hospitable through the holidays, open on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. The restaurant is a sibling to Takara Japanese Restaurant and is located right next door; in fact the two restaurants are adjoining. Takara opened three years ago, and does more traditional Japanese food and sushi.

Fork In The Road, an American/burger restaurant in Arlington at 1821 S. Fielder Rd., is closing after nine years in business, with its final day on Saturday December 3, or until supplies last. According to a Facebook post, the restaurant said that it was unable to stay open with increased prices, shortages, and increased rents, and it was time to retire.

M & M Steak House, a longtime steakhouse in the Stockyards at 1109 NW 28th St., is officially closed. The restaurant, which first opened in 1965 as a Czech-style steakhouse called Papa Joe’s, has not reopened since the pandemic. Owner Keith Kidwill, who also owns Margie’s Original Italian Kitchen on Camp Bowie Boulevard, told the FWST the space is now for rent.

Boho Bistro will no longer be the on-site caterer for The Woman’s Club of Fort Worth. According to an email sent out to Woman’s Club members, Boho will also no longer be serving food in the Tea Room, and will no longer be renting the kitchen. Boho is out!

Blue Mesa Grill has a new Holiday Fajita Party Pack To-Go, with queso, guacamole, chicken taquitos, steak & chicken fajitas, adobe pie, black beans, coconut lime rice, toppings, tortillas, and brownies with a cajeta swirl. $195 serves 8 people. It’s available through December 31; order at bluemesagrill.com.

Blue Goose Cantina is offering its annual homemade Box O’ Tamales in pork, chicken, jalapeño, and cheese options, with three sauces – Salsa Verde, chili con carne, and queso. The boxes are $30, and require a 24-hour minimum advance order on BlueGooseCantina.com. Click ‘Order Now,’ and select the nearest restaurant and date needed.

Snooze an AM Eatery has a limited-edition Cranberry Orange Pancake, a buttermilk pancake topped with orange crème anglaise, cranberry coulis, cranberry mascarpone, and almond streusel, available through December 31. Proceeds from the purchase will be donated to World Central Kitchen.

BoomerJack’s Bar and Grill has a new winter menu with $8 items including Brown Bag Burger, Bottomless Soup & Salad, BLT, and a Grilled Chicken Sandwich. The Fat Jack Sampler is a sampler for the table with Boneless Wings, Mozzarella Bites, Brisket Quesadillas, Fried Pickles, and Jack’s Skillet Queso with tortilla chips, for $35. Holiday items include Boozy Hot Chocolate and Tableside S’mores.

Aw Shucks and Big Shucks Oyster Bar now have whole Key lime pies for preorder only, through the month of December. The pies are made in-house daily and 24-hour minimum notice is required. A 9-inch pie is $30.

Razzoo’s Cajun Cafe has introduced a new holiday cocktail called the Berry Blitzen, served in a Hurricane glass with Jack Daniels, Ancho Reyes Chile Liqueur, Finest Call Raspberry, honey syrup, and lemonade, topped with a Red Bull. They’re also bringing back Angry Balls, a pint of Angry Orchard Hard Cider paired with a shot of Fireball Cinnamon Whiskey.

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Stephanie Allmon Merry contributed to this story.