Zhen Kitchen: A Chinese family’s restaurant legacy in Doha | Fork the System

Doha, Qatar – About 20 years ago, in a land far far away, a young Ma Zhong Yan decided to leave Shenyang, China, to make her fortune in the world. She wanted a new start for herself, her husband Zhang Bin and her daughter Zhang Jia Ni.

So she talked to a friend, whom she still refers to as her “sister”, and together they decided they would try their luck in the United States, they had heard many success stories from there. The next step was to speak to an agent who arranged work visas, so they found a guy who knew a guy who knew an agent, and had a conversation. Everything was agreed, and the agent said he would get them visas to the US asap.

But things rarely work to plan, and the agent could only get visas to a place they’ve never heard of before: Doha, Qatar.

a wok caught mid-toss over an open flame
Zhang Bin gets some wok flares as he stir-fries morning glory over a special flame [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]

Today, sitting in her restaurant in Doha’s West Bay, Zhong Yan says she’s still not sure how that happened, a soft smile on her gentle face that glows in the afternoon sun. But, she says, cradling a cup of green tea, she’s glad things worked out the way they did. Even considering the pain of having to leave her husband and daughter behind so she could start a new life for them.

They’re both here with her and Zhong Yan is coming to the restaurant less often, taking a bit of time to herself now that Jia Ni has taken over managing it while Zhang Bin oversees operations in the kitchen.

She came in specially to speak to us and looks relaxed, sitting next to our friend Grace who has come to dinner to help translate. The cozy setup makes us feel like we’re visiting her at home rather than at the family’s newest venture, Zhen Street Kitchen. This is their second act after they had to close their first restaurant – a cult favorite among those Dohaites in the know – Playstation Cafeteria.

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Animal Rebellion occupy Salt Bae’s celebrity hotspot and brand it ‘symbolic of a broken system’

Animal Rebellion occupy Salt Bae’s celebrity hotspot Nusr-Et in Knightsbridge and brand it ‘symbolic of a broken system’ in the latest stunt

  • Animal Rebellion supporters occupied Salt Bae’s restaurant on Saturday night
  • The ‘ultra-premium’ steakhouse serves gold steaks for a staggering £1450 each
  • Group claims actions will continue until the government takes ‘meaningful action’

On Saturday 3 December, Animal Rebellion supporters ‘peacefully’ entered social media celebrity Salt Bae’s famous Knightsbridge restaurant, Nusr-Et.

Eight protestors occupied reserved tables, calling for a plant-based food system and conservation efforts known as rewilding.

Salt Bae, the social media influencer and chef who rose to fame in 2017, has hosted the likes of David Beckham, Snoop Dogg and Leonardo DiCaprio at his ‘ultra-premium’ restaurants.

In November, Salt Bae was slammed on social media after bragging about a customer’s £140,584 bill in Abu Dhabi.

Protesters said staff at Salt Bae’s upmarket steak restaurant had physically removed demonstrators from the venue ‘tougher than police would do it’.

Student Ben Thomas, 20, said: ‘We’re in this restaurant to show the inequality in lifestyle during this cost-of-living crisis with people out in this fine dining establishment while others can’t heat their homes.

‘We’re a group of non-violent protesters also campaigning for a plant-based food system.

‘We just sat there, the wait staff were quite civil, but the members of the public – two of them got quite aggressive at one point.

‘The woman kept giving me really dirty looks just for being there. The customers clapped as we were picked up and taken outside.’

Orin Cooley-Greene, 21, said: ‘It was tougher than the police would do it.’

Salt Bae's 'Ultra-Premium' London restaurant was occupied by Animal Rebellion supporters

Salt Bae’s ‘Ultra-Premium’ London restaurant was occupied by Animal Rebellion supporters

Animal Rebellion occupied reserved tables in a peaceful protest on Saturday evening

Animal Rebellion occupied reserved tables in a peaceful protest on Saturday evening

Animal Rebellion claims these actions will continue until the government takes real action

Animal Rebellion claims these actions will continue until the government takes real action

Mr Thomas also said: ‘Restaurants like these are symbolic of a broken system.

‘Whilst 2 million people are relying on food banks in the UK right now, influencer chefs are selling gold-plated steaks for more than one thousand pounds.

‘Steaks, and other red meats, that we know carry the highest environmental impacts.’

An hour after the occupation of the London restaurant, 16 Animal Rebellion participants entered ‘Mana’, a Michelin Star Restaurant in Manchester’s Ancoats district.

The restaurant boasts a set-menu starting at £195 per person and refuses to cater for vegans.

Two weeks ago, Animal Rebellion staged a protest at Gordon Ramsay’s 3 Michelin Star restaurant in Chelsea.

The group claims these actions will continue until the government takes meaningful action on climate and ecological emergencies.

Animal Rebellion claims the meat served in Salt Bae’s restaurants is among the most carbon intensive foods to produce.

A study last year found meat alone accounts for nearly 60% of all greenhouse gases from food production, with beef and lamb some of the worst polluters.

Salt Bae was slammed online after sharing a £140,584 bill from a customer in Abu Dhabi

Salt Bae was slammed online after sharing a £140,584 bill from a customer in Abu Dhabi

Salt Bae's restaurants are hotspots for the rich and famous, racking up huge bills

Salt Bae’s restaurants are hotspots for the rich and famous, racking up huge bills

Student Ben Thomas, 20, said restaurants like Salt Bae's are symbolic of a broken system

Student Ben Thomas, 20, said restaurants like Salt Bae’s are symbolic of a broken system

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Michelin Guide releases ‘Bib Gourmand’ best value restaurants in Northern California for 2022

The Michelin Guide has released its first 2022 rankings for California, revealing new additions to its Bib Gourmand list.

These Bib Gourmand picks don’t include Michelin’s famous stars. The French guide tends to reserve that designation for fine-dining restaurants with a high standard for service. Instead, Bib Gourmand winners are what the guide’s anonymous inspectors consider a good value — typically under $50 for “two courses and a glass of wine or dessert.”

There were just three Northern California additions to the Bib Gourmand list this year: Good Good Culture Club in San Francisco, an offshoot of the wildly popular Liholiho Yacht Club; Hilda and Jesse in San Francisco, a sophisticated brunch restaurant; and Jo’s Modern Thai in Oakland, known for pushing boundaries with dishes like barbecue brisket drunken noodles.

This year’s list is much briefer than the 2021 group of new Bib Gourmands for the region. That’s at least in part because the guide took 2020 off due to the pandemic. The three newcomers will join a total of 141 Bib Gourmand designees for 2022, including 13 from Southern California, to which the guide expanded in 2019.

The full picture of Michelin winners, including Bib Gourmands, won’t be clear until all the stars are announced. The guidebook does not issue the entire Bib Gourmand list until next week; for now, it announced just the new additions.

“We don’t release the full list in advance because people can connect the dots and it ruins the big reveal,” a representative wrote. “Think of it as an appetizer before the full meal.”

Still, in a press release last month, the guidebook did share a list of the 37 new additions for this year, though without noting their ratings. It’s possible to spoil your appetite by consulting that list, whose members are still in the running to receive stars.

Those star winners will be announced on Monday, Dec. 5, at a ceremony at the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. The choice of venue is a handy reminder of the guide’s origins: The French tire company released its first promotional guide in 1900 to encourage auto travel, declaring restaurants worth a detour or special trip. The company’s supply of rubber, once cultivated on a plantation in French colonial Vietnam, is now sourced from farms it owns and co-owns in Brazil, West Africa, Thailand and Indonesia.

Caleb Pershan is The San Francisco Chronicle’s assistant Food + Wine editor. Email: [email protected]

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