At Amira’s Kitchen, Middle Eastern home cooking marvels in Riverside

Many years ago, in a simpler time, my youngest child read “The Red Pyramid,” part of the “Kane Chronicles” by Rick Riordan. It’s a fantasy series that pits Egyptian gods against plucky teen wizards, seasoned with glimpses of far-off lands.

What’s sahlab? she asked. The book describes it as a warm, sweet winter drink with vanilla, cinnamon and coconut. Turns out it’s traditionally made with orchid root flour, whipped into a frothy beverage renowned for its ethereal fluffiness, a sort of Tom & Jerry of the Levant. Minus the booze, of course, the Ottoman Empire being officially dry.

Orchid flour being quite dear in the United States, cooks here usually make it with cornstarch, like the packet of instant sahlab that I tracked down at Buffalo Fresh, the Arabic supermarket on Genesee Street. We both shrugged at the disappointingly bland result.

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Something for everyone at Amira's Kitchen

Dishes available at Amira’s Kitchen, including rotisserie chicken, falafel, kibbeh and hummus.


Libby March/Buffalo News


So imagine my delight when I found sahlab on a restaurant menu in Buffalo, all these years later. It augured well, a message from ancient gods to venture on. As it turned out, Amira’s Kitchen, run by a grandmother from Jerusalem, is making some tasty magic in Riverside.

It’s a spare no-nonsense space with seating at tables or a counter, decorated with hand-painted pottery vessels, silver-plated camels, and a platter depicting the Dome of the Rock, the Islamic holy place in the Old City.







Mini-manakeesh assortment at Amira's Kitchen

A mini-manakeesh assortment, with za’atar, cheese and meat versions, at Amira’s Kitchen.


Libby March/Buffalo News


Starters worth noting include mini-manakeesh, flaky griddled breads topped with olive oil and za’atar ($12 for 10), a dry spice mix including thyme, sesame seeds and puckery sumac that crisps aromatically when heated. There’s also versions in mild cheese ($13/10), beef-onion-parsley ($14/10), or a combination platter thereof ($15/9).







Falafel plate with pickles and tahini sauce at Amira's Kitchen

The falafel plate, with pickles, vegetables and tahini sauce at Amira’s Kitchen.


Libby March/Buffalo News


Falafel plate ($8) with refreshing turnip pickles, dill cucumbers and fresh vegetables along with capable chickpea fritters, for one of the better traditional vegan plates in town. In the mujadara plate ($12), Amira’s Kitchen presents one of the great vegan feasts of the Levant, found nowhere else in town. This Palestinian version offers seasoned rice and lentil pilaf, topped with onions caramelized into jammy onion candy.







Mujadara rice-lentil pilaf at Amira's Kitchen

Mujadara, a rice and lentil dish with caramelized onions, at Amira’s Kitchen.


Libby March/Buffalo News


The big three of Lebanese meze – tabouli, parsley, tomato and bulgur wheat salad; hummus, chickpea puree with sesame paste; and babaganoush, with roasted eggplant instead of chickpeas – were vibrant versions. Notably crispy french fries arrived tossed in salt and za’atar.







Mixed grill platter at Amira's Kitchen

A mixed grill plate with kefta kebab, lamb kebab and chicken tawook at Amira’s Kitchen.


Libby March/Buffalo News


Arabian salata at Amira’s is the usual Jerusalem salad – chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and parsley, in olive oil and lemon, plus a dollop of the ground sesame paste called tahini. That adds a rich nuttiness, enriching it without involving animals.

Her Syrian-style kibbie ($9) is among the best I’ve met in town. This beloved Middle Eastern appetizer offers allspice-scented ground beef, sautéed onions and pine nuts encased in a fried crust of beef pounded with wheat. Crisp stout exterior yields to lush interior, if the cook knows what they’re doing, and gets to do it right. Check out Riverside’s entry for a textbook version.

Lamb kabob salad ($16) was a steal for the generous helping of tender lamb chunks grilled with a whisper of smoke but still pink inside, over a robust salad, tomatoes, cucumbers, Kalamata olives and feta, with your choice of dressing. (I would suggest tahini. When in Jerusalem, and so on.) The beef kefta ($19), featuring seasoned grilled sausagelike links, gets a bed of rice with fried almonds and vermicelli.







Roast chicken at Amira's Kitchen

Whole chickens roast in the rotisserie oven at Amira’s Kitchen.


Libby March/Buffalo News


For all the Middle Eastern delights in Amira’s Kitchen, the meat of the order, so to speak, is the rotisserie chicken. You can certainly pay less for a gummy bird next to the candy rack at the supermarket. Treat yourself to a slightly larger chicken that is marinated, cooked and served so on-point crispy that skin must be the first course. Tender meat encourages hands-on eating, with pieces dabbed in garlic mayonnaise or green jalapeño-level-spicy herbal citrus tonic.

A half chicken with two sides ($17) makes a fine dinner for two people who aren’t ravenous, or one who is. The whole chicken with two sides ($22) and a chicken and a half with four large sides ($50) is good for a tableful of hungry mouths.







Rotisserie chicken with garlic and spicy herb sauce at Amira's Kitchen

Rotisserie chicken with green and white sauce at Amira’s Kitchen.


Libby March/Buffalo News


The mint lemonade ($5) was refreshingly aromatic, and there are fruit smoothies

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Best Eggnog French Toast Recipe

It seems like there’s always a little more eggnog in the carton than we know what to do with, so we set out to create the perfect recipe to use it up. Enter: eggnog French toast! It turns out that eggnog makes the ideal French toast custard base in place of traditional milk, half-and-half, or cream. Enriched with eggs and spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and rum extract, this eggnog French toast recipe has all the flavors you love in an eggnog cocktail, but in a family-friendly breakfast format.

The trick to custardy (but not soggy) French toast is to use dried-out bread; compared to fresh bread, it absorbs more of the custard and keeps its shape rather than falling apart as it soaks. We give our bread a 10-minute toast in a 275º oven to get the job done. (Dried bread makes for a better texture than stale, which retains a lot of moisture. If you do happen to have a stale loaf, still go ahead and dry the slices in the oven.) Just make sure you give the bread at least 30 minutes to soak before cooking—while it may increase your prep time, it really does make a difference in achieving that custardy center.

To create a textural contrast, we sprinkle the bread with a little sugar before cooking. The result is a crispy, glazey, caramelized crust that complements the toast’s rich, eggy interior. It’s just sweet enough to stand on its own, but we love it drizzled with maple syrup and garnished with some whipped cream and berries.

Want to get ahead of the game? Prep the French toast the night before, soaking overnight in the refrigerator (covered with plastic wrap) for an extra custardy interior. Just be sure to let it warm up slightly on the counter before cooking, and potentially give it a few extra minutes in the pan to ensure it’s cooked all the way through. PS Use a 13″-by-9″ baking dish if you don’t have a large rimmed baking sheet.

Made this holiday breakfast? Let us know how it went in the comments below!

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Older Japanese men, lost in the kitchen, turn to housework school

Masahiro Yoshida, left, and Takao Watanabe take notes during a class at the Better Home cooking school in Tokyo.
Masahiro Yoshida, left, and Takao Watanabe take notes during a class at the Better Home cooking school in Tokyo. (Taro Karibe for The Washington Post)

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TOKYO — Masahiro Yoshida hung up his suit jacket and pulled a pink apron over his button-down shirt. After avoiding the kitchen for most of his 65 years, it was time to cook.

As with most Japanese men, Yoshida’s mother prepared all his meals until he got married, when his wife assumed that role. But after he retired four years ago from his job as a government administrator, he proposed they share meal prep. Yoshida agreed but got lost making basic dishes. YouTube tutorials were confounding.

So like a growing number of older men here, he signed up for classes. His six-month course at the Better Home cooking school covered skills such as how to mince garlic, chop mushrooms and shop for meat — all integral for the stroganoff he would attempt before graduating. “I had no idea how complex the cooking process was,” Yoshida admitted.

Strict gender roles have governed domestic life in Japan for generations. Men often retire without ever having held a paring knife or washed a dish. Those who lose a spouse often find themselves unable to do the most rudimentary chores. An old Japanese saying — “Danshi-chubo-ni-hairazu,” or “men should be ashamed to be found in the kitchen” — has spooked husbands from most any household work. Even those who wanted to help typically lacked the know-how.

Evidence of this isn’t merely anecdotal. According to a survey conducted by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, Japanese men take on less household responsibility and child care than their counterparts in any of the world’s richest countries. On average, they spend just 40 minutes a day on the combination, five times less than their wives. Only 14 percent reported regularly cooking for themselves.

As the country ages, however, and the average life span for men stretches into the mid-80s, some women are drawing a line and declaring themselves done by picking up after their husbands.

“The biggest problem is that men don’t see themselves as the responsible party when it comes to housework,” said Yasuyuki Tokukura, who runs the nonprofit group Fathering Japan and advises the government on gender issues within households. The traditional division of labor persists despite the significant number of women now working outside of the home; indeed, dual-income households are more than twice as prevalent as those with single incomes.

Simmering resentments frequently come to a head once a man’s career ends and his wife starts to question the arrangement, Tokukura said. “The power dynamic changes. The wife asks, ‘Why do I have to do all the housework if you are no longer bringing in the money?’ ”

These days, many women are pulling husbands like 65-year-old Yoshida into the kitchen. Yet the men must first learn the basics.

The government is willing to assist, with some community centers offering free classes to teach cooking, cleaning, ironing and laundering.

Motohiko Onoue is the founder of the home economics school Kaji Osu, though he tends to look more corporate than culinary in his starched shirt, navy slacks and leather dress shoes. On a Friday morning this month, he gathered a dozen students around a stove at a neighborhood center in Shiki, a city outside Tokyo, to demonstrate how to make healthy chicken nuggets from scratch. The session was part of a six-week course that addressed how to cook miso, clean around the stove burners and remove stains from clothing.

When Onoue started his school five years ago, other men laughed at him. “A housework school for men? That’s ridiculous,” he was told.

Yet he saw a niche market with much potential. Attracting students wasn’t easy at first; only one man came to his first group lesson. That’s when Onoue decided to bring his lessons to the men, working with community programs to advertise the courses anytime retires showed up with questions about retirement benefits or their national health insurance policies.

He even offers students private consultations to focus on the aspects of the housework that they find most daunting. To encourage critical thinking, recipes don’t come with the usual step-by-step sequence. “Men who are used to business thinking need a problem to solve. I give them the basic materials and instructions, and let them figure it out,” Onoue said.

These courses are also popular with men who suddenly find themselves widowed or divorced and don’t know the basics of self-care.

Takashi Kaneko, 74, decided to sign up after his wife died of liver cancer four years ago. He was living mostly on microwaveable foods and found himself desperate for company. Not only had his wife taken

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