Older Japanese men, lost in the kitchen, turn to housework school

Masahiro Yoshida, left, and Takao Watanabe take notes during a class at the Better Home cooking school in Tokyo.
Masahiro Yoshida, left, and Takao Watanabe take notes during a class at the Better Home cooking school in Tokyo. (Taro Karibe for The Washington Post)

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TOKYO — Masahiro Yoshida hung up his suit jacket and pulled a pink apron over his button-down shirt. After avoiding the kitchen for most of his 65 years, it was time to cook.

As with most Japanese men, Yoshida’s mother prepared all his meals until he got married, when his wife assumed that role. But after he retired four years ago from his job as a government administrator, he proposed they share meal prep. Yoshida agreed but got lost making basic dishes. YouTube tutorials were confounding.

So like a growing number of older men here, he signed up for classes. His six-month course at the Better Home cooking school covered skills such as how to mince garlic, chop mushrooms and shop for meat — all integral for the stroganoff he would attempt before graduating. “I had no idea how complex the cooking process was,” Yoshida admitted.

Strict gender roles have governed domestic life in Japan for generations. Men often retire without ever having held a paring knife or washed a dish. Those who lose a spouse often find themselves unable to do the most rudimentary chores. An old Japanese saying — “Danshi-chubo-ni-hairazu,” or “men should be ashamed to be found in the kitchen” — has spooked husbands from most any household work. Even those who wanted to help typically lacked the know-how.

Evidence of this isn’t merely anecdotal. According to a survey conducted by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, Japanese men take on less household responsibility and child care than their counterparts in any of the world’s richest countries. On average, they spend just 40 minutes a day on the combination, five times less than their wives. Only 14 percent reported regularly cooking for themselves.

As the country ages, however, and the average life span for men stretches into the mid-80s, some women are drawing a line and declaring themselves done by picking up after their husbands.

“The biggest problem is that men don’t see themselves as the responsible party when it comes to housework,” said Yasuyuki Tokukura, who runs the nonprofit group Fathering Japan and advises the government on gender issues within households. The traditional division of labor persists despite the significant number of women now working outside of the home; indeed, dual-income households are more than twice as prevalent as those with single incomes.

Simmering resentments frequently come to a head once a man’s career ends and his wife starts to question the arrangement, Tokukura said. “The power dynamic changes. The wife asks, ‘Why do I have to do all the housework if you are no longer bringing in the money?’ ”

These days, many women are pulling husbands like 65-year-old Yoshida into the kitchen. Yet the men must first learn the basics.

The government is willing to assist, with some community centers offering free classes to teach cooking, cleaning, ironing and laundering.

Motohiko Onoue is the founder of the home economics school Kaji Osu, though he tends to look more corporate than culinary in his starched shirt, navy slacks and leather dress shoes. On a Friday morning this month, he gathered a dozen students around a stove at a neighborhood center in Shiki, a city outside Tokyo, to demonstrate how to make healthy chicken nuggets from scratch. The session was part of a six-week course that addressed how to cook miso, clean around the stove burners and remove stains from clothing.

When Onoue started his school five years ago, other men laughed at him. “A housework school for men? That’s ridiculous,” he was told.

Yet he saw a niche market with much potential. Attracting students wasn’t easy at first; only one man came to his first group lesson. That’s when Onoue decided to bring his lessons to the men, working with community programs to advertise the courses anytime retires showed up with questions about retirement benefits or their national health insurance policies.

He even offers students private consultations to focus on the aspects of the housework that they find most daunting. To encourage critical thinking, recipes don’t come with the usual step-by-step sequence. “Men who are used to business thinking need a problem to solve. I give them the basic materials and instructions, and let them figure it out,” Onoue said.

These courses are also popular with men who suddenly find themselves widowed or divorced and don’t know the basics of self-care.

Takashi Kaneko, 74, decided to sign up after his wife died of liver cancer four years ago. He was living mostly on microwaveable foods and found himself desperate for company. Not only had his wife taken

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Best Sloppy Joe Meatball Bake Recipe

Meatballs don’t take the sloppy out of sloppy Joes, they just turn it into a whole new form. Trust us—these little ones are just as delicious as the original ground beef version. Cheesy, hefty, and super-saucy, this skillet dish also comes together in just under an hour, making it the perfect anytime meal.

Besides being irresistibly tasty, this dish is also extremely versatile. Cook up these meatballs, then serve them in a variety of ways: Sandwich them into a hoagie roll for a saucy meatball sub, enjoy them right out of the skillet as an easy appetizer (think game day snacks!), or serve this bake as a main with fresh veggie sides.

Tip: It’s important to sear the meatballs first before cooking with the sauce to ensure they get crispy and are cooked through; otherwise, your meatballs might be undercooked or chance falling apart—you don’t want that! After cooking in your tomato-based sauce, you’ll broil with cheese until everything gets bubbly and golden. We chose mozzarella for our cheese of choice because of how melty and stretchy it gets, but feel free to add your favorite cheese. Cheddar or Monterey Jack would also be delicious here, as would pepper Jack if you wanted a kick of heat!

Looking for more sloppy Joe remixes? Try our sloppy quesadillas, stuffed peppers, and grilled cheese too.

Tried this? Let us know how it went in the comments below!

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Study Finds Earliest Evidence of Cooking

A recent study found what could be the earliest known evidence of ancient cooking: the leftovers of a fish dinner from 780,000 years ago.

Cooking helped change our ancestors. It helped fuel our evolution and gave us bigger brains. Later, cooking would become central to the eating celebrations that brought communities together.

The new study, published in Nature Ecology and Evolution, is based on material from Gesher Benot Ya’aqov in Israel — a watery place near an ancient lake.

Ancient objects from the area suggest it was home to a community of Homo erectus, a kind of early human that walked upright, explained study lead writer Irit Zohar of Tel Aviv University.

Naama Goren-Inbar of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem led the research digs. She said researchers found fish remains, especially teeth. Many of the teeth were from two different kinds of fish known as carp.

The remains were found near places where researchers also found signs of fire. Testing showed the teeth had been exposed to temperatures that were hot, but not super-hot. This suggests the fish were cooked low and slow, rather than being put right onto a fire, Zohar explained.

With all the evidence together, researchers concluded that these ancient human relatives had used fire for cooking some 780,000 years ago. That is much earlier than the next oldest evidence for cooking, about 170,000 years ago, which showed Stone Age humans ate cooked roots in South Africa.

This illustration provided by Tel Aviv University depicts hominins preparing Luciobarbus longiceps fish on the shores of the ancient lake Lake Hula.  A recent study found the oldest evidence of using fire to cook, dating back to 780,000 years ago.  (Ella Maru/Tel Aviv University via AP)

This illustration provided by Tel Aviv University depicts hominins preparing Luciobarbus longiceps fish on the shores of the ancient lake Lake Hula. A recent study found the oldest evidence of using fire to cook, dating back to 780,000 years ago. (Ella Maru/Tel Aviv University via AP)

Cooking might have started even earlier

The researchers — like many other experts — believe cooking started long before this, even though physical evidence has been hard to find.

“I am sure that in the near future an earlier case will be reported,” study writer Israel Hershkovitz of Tel Aviv University said in an email.

That is in part because using fire for cooking was an important step in humans evolution.

Cooking food makes it easier for the body to digest and get nutrients, explained David Braun of George Washington University. Braun was not involved with the study. When early humans figured out how to cook, they were able to get more energy, which they could use to fuel bigger brains.

Based on how human ancestors’ brains and bodies developed, scientists estimate that cooking skills appeared nearly 2 million years ago.

“If we’re out there eating raw items, it is very difficult to make it as a large-bodied primates,” Braun said.

Those first cooked meals were far different from today’s food. And in the many, many years in between, humans started not just eating for fuel, but for community.

Cooking food to build community

In a 2010 study, led by Natalie Munro of the University of Connecticut, researchers described the earliest evidence of a feast. The feast was a specially prepared meal that people brought together for an event 12,000 years ago in a cave in Israel.

The cave, which served as a burial place, included the remains of one special woman who seemed to be a religious leader for her community, Munro said.

This “first feast” came at an important turning point in human history, right as hunter-gatherers were starting to settle into more permanent living situations, Munro said. Gathering for special meals may have been a way to build community and reduce tensions now that people live closer to each other, he said.

Munro said he believes ancient feasts are served a lot of the same social uses that modern gatherings serve: People exchange information, make connections, or try to improve their position.

“This is something that’s just quintessentially humans,” Munro said. “And to see the first evidence of it is exciting.”

I’m John Russell.

Maddie Burakoff wrote this story for The Associated Press. John Russell adapted the story for Learning English.

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Words in This Story

evolution – n. the process by which changes in plants and animals happen over time

expose — v. to cause (someone) to experience something or to be influenced or affected by something

digest — v. to change (food that you have eaten) with a biological process into simpler forms that can be used by the body

raw – adj. not cooked

primates – n. any member of the group of animals that includes human beings, apes, and monkeys

quintessentially – adv. the perfect example of something

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