Clear Lake, Garner restaurants among those with department of inspections infractions

CLARK KAUFFMAN Iowa Capital Dispatch

State, city and county food inspectors have cited Iowa restaurants and stores for hundreds of food-safety violations this past month, including moldy taco meat, beef marked “Not For Sale,” long-expired milk, and unskilled workers preparing sushi that failed to meet minimum safety standards.

One Des Moines food store was found to be importing fish directly from Thailand, which meant that none of it went through the usual process of being inspected and certified as safe. At the same store, whole chickens from an unknown, unlabeled source were being sold to the public.

The findings are reported by the Iowa Department of Inspections and Appeals, which handles food-establishment inspections at the state level. Listed below are some of the more serious findings that stem from inspections at Iowa restaurants, stores, schools, hospitals and other businesses over the past four weeks.

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The state inspections department reminds the public that their reports are a “snapshot” in time, and violations are often corrected on the spot before the inspector leaves the establishment. For a more complete list of all inspections, along with additional details on each of the inspections listed below, visit the Iowa Department of Inspections and Appeals’ website.

Fujisan Sushi at Sam’s Club, 305 Airport Road, Ames – During a Nov. 16 visits, a state inspector cited the establishment for food that was holding just above the maximum temperature of 41 degrees, including tempura shrimp at 42 degrees and crab at 43 degrees.

Also, the establishment was not following the required Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points protocol for identifying and managing risks related to sushi and raw-food production. The inspector noted there was no current HACCP plan on the premises, and there were issues with the proper calibration of the pH meter and the process used to test the pH level of the rice. Also, the establishment had not filled out the logbook with the dates of pH testing and other safety-related information.

The inspector also noted that the establishment was thawing crab meat in stagnant water rather than in running water.

Hy-Vee Foods, 2540 Euclid Ave., Des Moines – During a Nov. 16 visit, a state inspector noted that the required shellstock identification tags – used to track the source of shellfish in the event of a food-related outbreak of some kind – were not maintained alongside the store’s Cherrystone Clams, Littleneck Clams and Chesapeake Pride Oysters. Also, an inspection of the store’s Hickory House Kitchen indicated there was raw ground beef stored above a whole roast inside one cooler, and packages of raw chicken were stored above whole-muscle meat on a cart.

In addition, “heat-treated potatoes” were measured at 59 degrees on the breakfast area’s food preparation table; sliced ​​ham was holding at 61 degrees; and cooked sausages were measured at 46 degrees. All of those items had to be discarded as their holding temperatures weren’t hot enough to ensure food safety.

The inspector also noted that sliced ​​turkey, sliced ​​roast beef, cooked chicken, sausages, pico de gallo, and other foods were not marked with their preparation or opening dates. In the Hy-Vee Chinese area, packages of raw, unwashed mushrooms were stored directly on uncovered pans of cooked beef and chicken inside a walk-in cooler.

In addition, crab Rangoon was being held at 88 degrees, which was too cool to ensure safety; and egg rolls were held at 128 degrees. The egg rolls were reheated to 165 degrees and the crab Rangoon was discarded. In the Hy-Vee Chinese area, “pooling water and debris” was accumulating on the floor below the wok and the adjacent reach-in cooler. In the Hickory House Kitchen area, water was pooling on the floor near a handwashing sink.

The inspection was in response to three non-illness complaints. One complaint maintained to sanitation in the bottle-redemption area; one concerned sanitation in the Market Grille area; and the third concern alleged adulterated food in the meat, dairy and Hy-Vee Chinese areas. All three complaints were deemed unverifiable.

Seven Stars Family Restaurant, 2309 3rd Ave., Clear Lake – During a Nov. 2 visits, a Cerro Gordo County inspector found two half-gallons of milk in the refrigerator, with one having expired Sept. 26 and the other on Oct. 6. In addition, some food items in the walk-in cooler had no date markings on them, and cooked bacon was left in a pan, uncovered, on the floor of the walk-in cooler.

Hy-Vee Foods, 1025 Quincy Ave., Ottumwa – During a Nov. 1 visit, a state inspector found potatoes, presumably cooked, that were “on the counter for about 4 to 4.5 hours at an internal temperature of about 65 degrees” and had to be discarded. Also, the inside of an ice machine was soiled with a buildup of debris.

The inspector also cited

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Le Bernardin tops vaunted ‘List’ as NYC restaurants gear up for critical holiday season

December will be a make-or-break month for many Midtown restaurants hobbled by slow lunch business, but they’re not sweating it at Le Bernardin.

The West 50th Street seafood palace, where Michelin recently reaffirmed a precious three-star rating, was just named the world’s No. 1 restaurant for 2023 by La Liste, the increasingly influential rankings based in Paris. The findings are based on analysis of thousands of guidebooks, media stories and online reviews worldwide, while Michelin relies on anonymous inspector visits.

Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin’s chef and co-owner with Maguy Le Coze, celebrated the second time Le Bernardin has been so honored (it was also No. 1 on La Liste in 2019) as “excellent news for us. La Liste, which is only seven years old, is starting to impose itself,” and is widely followed by visitors to the Big Apple from Asian countries including Japan and Korea.

Le Bernardin hardly needs another boost. It shares the no. 1 billing with Guy Savoy in France and Frantzen in Sweden.

Ripert said Le Bernardin, which was also named No.  1 by La Liste in 2019, has "never been so busy."
Ripert said Le Bernardin, which was also named No. 1 by La Liste in 2019, has “never been so busy.”
Not all Midtown restaurants are experiencing the same kind of lunch success as Le Bernardin.
Not all Midtown restaurants are experiencing the same kind of lunch success as Le Bernardin.
Robert Miller

“We have never been so busy,” Ripert said — at lunch as well as at dinner.

But although tables are hard to come by before the end of the year, the one-two punch of Michelin and La Liste “are much more important to us in January and February.”

However, not everybody in Midtown, the heart of Manhattan’s restaurant industry, is ready to break out the Champagne. Holiday party bookings have been unexpectedly robust, but weak lunch traffic continues to be a lump of coal for places still recovering from the pandemic.

Although fine places have opened such as Fasano, Le Rock and Simon Oren’s buzzing new Monterey, and old favorites like Fresco by Scotto and Polo Bar seem like non-stop parties, the pandemic felled the fabled ’21’ Club and more are on the brink .

Times Square Alliance president Tom Harris said he’s “watching December closely.” He said the restaurant business area is down 9% overall from 2019 levels. Reduced lunch demand kept places such as Jasmine’s on Restaurant Row dark before 4 pm

The turbulent scene keeps savvy owners on their toes. Jeff Bank, CEO of Alicart Restaurant Group, which owns Carmine’s and Virgil’s, said operators must “acknowledge the huge shifts in demographics and timing.”

Before COVID, “You pretty much knew what was going to happen at lunch and dinner,” he said. But now, “We have to be flexible. It’s easier for [better-established places] that have multi-legs to stand on. We know Friday is dead due to empty offices, but we can pick up tourism on the weekend.”

Alicart Restaurant Group CEO Jeff Bank said restaurant operators must “recognize the huge shifts in demographics and timing.”
Alicart Restaurant Group CEO Jeff Bank said restaurant operators must “recognize the huge shifts in demographics and timing.”
Freelancers

Owners or landlords of Gallagher’s, Bryant Park Grill and Nobu 57 all claim their revenues are running 20-25% higher than in 2019. But New York Hospitality Alliance’s Andrew Rigie said, “For restaurants that relied heavily on office workers, it’s tough when the building upstairs is less than 50% occupied.”

The new Avra ​​on Sixth Avenue always looks full, but partner Nick Tsoulos says his three restaurants are only “about 60% to 70% back” compared to pre-COVID levels.

“I’m waiting to see [what happens] this Christmas season,” he said. the
“power lunch” where prime-movers did business over their meals, “has faded,” he added.

Ben Grossman, CEO of Fireman Hospitality Group, said that the company’s overall business is “close to pre-COVID.” But lunch is a little softer at Italian spots Bond 45 and Trattoria Dell’ Arte.

Dinner still rocks, especially at Trattoria across Seventh Avenue from Carnegie Hall.

“What’s missing in the area is lunch,” Grossman said. “Friday which used to be our best lunch day is now the worst.”

Some lunch traffic is location-specific, based on office occupancy in the same buildings as the restaurants. Porter House Bar & Grill at Columbus Circle had less of a lunch crowd because Deutsche Bank staff, who replaced Time Warner upstairs, seemed to take more meals in their cafeteria than their media predecessors did.

Trattoria Dell' Arte, like many restaurants in Midtown, is suffering from a softer lunch during the week.
Trattoria Dell’ Arte, like many restaurants in Midtown, is suffering from a softer lunch during the week.
Helayne Seidman

However, chef/owner Michael Lomonaco said, “Our private events have never been stronger since the summer” and his 260 seats are filled almost every night.

The private events frenzy is making up for a slower lunch trade — half as in 2019 — at Dino Arpaia’s Cellini on East 54th Street. The popular spot has hosted recent parties for Santander Bank, Jefferies, KPMG, Blackstone and Black Rock.

But, “They’re all condensed into Tuesday through Thursday because they don’t come in

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Cozy, romantic restaurants in Tacoma & Pierce County

At the coziest restaurant in Pierce County, you can make new friends around a fire pit, roast marshmallows with a s’mores kit, and sip cider under a pavilion by a handcrafted water mill.

Mill Haus Cider Co., the expansive outdoor taproom and restaurant in Eatonville, won readers’ hearts in our TNT Diner poll. About 17 percent of more than 200 tallies went to this year-old destination not far from the Ashford entrance to Mount Rainier National Park.

A close runner-up, Marzano Italian Restaurant in Parkland garnered almost as many votes. In third place is Tacoma icon Over the Moon Cafe, commonly cited as the city’s most romantic restaurant.

A chunk of voters said their favorite was missing from the list. Shout-out to Cooks Tavern, which was nominated by a couple of readers. We tried to bring a wide variety of price points, cuisines and styles to the list of 40 choices.

Others that snagged several tallies: Bar Rosa, en Rama, Crudo & Cotto, Netshed No. 9 and Bourbon Street Creole Kitchen.

Read on for a look at the Top 5 and a few of TNT Diner’s favorites for all your cozy restaurant needs this winter and beyond.

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Fire pits and pavilions make the outdoor taproom at Mill Haus Cider Co. in Eatonville a great choice for a family-friendly outing. Donna Ragazzo and her son Jarin play corn hole on the lawn on July 7, 2022. Clare Grant [email protected]

MILL HAUS CIDER CO.

303 Center St. E, Eatonville, 253-487-7065, drinkmillhaus.com

Wednesday 4-8 pm, Thursday 4-9 pm, Friday-Saturday noon-9 pm, Sunday noon-8 pm

Longtime Eatonville resident Steve Schmidt built much of the unique fixtures on the property, from that water mill to a steel chandelier and a steam donkey replica above a stovepipe fireplace in the equally cozy lodge. Outside, there are several pavilions, ample fire pits, picnic tables with umbrellas, a stage for live music and an area dedicated to lawn games.

Schmidt started the cidery several years ago with son Caleb and his childhood friends, brothers Nick and Justin Baublits. While the taproom is a great choice for a cold one after a day in the mountains, it has quickly become a beloved Eatonville gathering place — the parking lot is regularly filled up on most days for lunch and dinner.

In addition to house ciders, the bar offers local craft brews and wines, while the kitchen churns out highly shareable plates, including flatbreads and Hawaiian pork sliders.

MARZANO

516 Garfield St., Tacoma, 253-537-4191, dinemarzano.com

Tuesday-Saturday 4-8 pm (8:30 pm weekend nights)

Elisa Marzano and her son Brian brought their seasonal Italian cooking to Parkland in 1998. Nearing its 25th birthday, the intimate restaurant inside a restored Craftsman house continues to hold the line as one of the region’s best.

Relish dishes like Northwest cioppino with Pacific clams, mussels, fin fish and prawns in a tomato-vermouth sauce; an assagi plate of homemade charcuterie and Sardinian-style crackers; classic spaghetti carbonara and “marvelous” meatballs. Pair with a glass of Rossa Toscana and finish with the light Swedish cream dessert. Reservations highly recommended.

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Marzano has been serving fine Italian fare focused on Northwest ingredients since 1988. The individual tent tables outside are almost as cozy as the dining room inside a vintage Craftsman in Parkland. Kristine Sherred [email protected]

OVER THE MOON CAFE

709 Opera Alley, Tacoma, 253-284-3722, overthemooncafe.net

Tuesday-Thursday 4:30-9 pm, Friday-Saturday 4:30-10 pm

More than two decades later, chef Deanna Harris-Bender’s Opera Alley getaway continues to be a sought-after table for anniversaries, graduation dinners and everyday celebrations. Its speakeasy sensibility stems from its two-story dining room with plush chairs, white tablecloths, heavy curtains, dim lighting and complementary background music.

Order a classic cocktail from the short-but-sweet list and start with a wedge salad, share the duck and try the vegetarian butternut squash “lasagna.” Wrap with a slice of the unique berry dessert. Reservations highly recommended.

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End your romantic meal at Over the Moon with a slice of chef-owner Deanna Harris-Bender’s unique berry pie, a date crust and dense mousse-like creation sweetened with coconut manna. Pete Caster [email protected]

DUSTY’S HIDEAWAY

723 E 34th St., Tacoma, 253-292-0106, dustyshideaway.com

Daily 11am-11pm (midnight Friday-Saturday)

Dusty’s website describes the McKinley Avenue pub as “a cozy little pit stop,” and how could you not agree? Owners Dana and Dave Verellen transformed this old Craftsman house into a kitschy desert oasis that feels like going to your friend’s place, where vintage trinkets mingle with plenty of houseplants in macrame hangers.

As a family-friendly restaurant, the menu features a few delicious burgers, fun sandwiches like the Sam Elliot with turkey, cream cheese and blackberry jam, and one of the best breakfast burritos in town. (Hint: Breakfast all day!) Cocktails are great here, too. When it’s not raining, find a seat in one

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